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Extension Perspectives

                      Waldo County Cooperative Extension's Monthly Newsletter                       
 

Mosquito Management

Non-chemical Controls
The following are various controls that can be undertaken to reduce the presence of mosquitoes, either by elimination of breeding places or destruction of the adults or larvae. Alone, these methods won’t eliminate your mosquito problem. However, using an integrated approach of combining several of these methods, you should see some results in reduction of mosquito annoyance.

Eliminate Breeding Sites –
Prior to mosquito emergence (late April), locate and drain, empty, or remove all potential sources of stagnant water, which can serve as mosquito breeding sites (e.g. unused pools, old tires, tin cans along with other similar discarded containers, rain gutters and birdbaths). Also, be sure to check and refresh water in small children’s wading pools, birdbaths, and animal water dishes and tubs to eliminate larvae. Keep dumpsters and trash receptacles covered to prevent water accumulation.

Eliminate Adult Resting Sites –
Cut back or remove dense brush and similar vegetation from around houses and camps. If you live on a lake, please check shoreland zoning ordinances before cutting brush or other vegetation. Keep grassy areas mowed short. Promote natural breezes to discourage mosquito occurrence. Encourage Natural Predators – Although limited in their effectiveness, predators such as dragonflies, bats, birds, frogs and mosquito eating fish naturally control the numbers of mosquitoes, especially in and around small farm and garden ponds or pools. Both the nymphs and adult dragonflies are natural enemies of mosquitoes. The nymphs, which are aquatic, feed on a variety of aquatic insects, including mosquito larvae. Dragonfly adults feed on flying adult mosquitoes. Mosquito eating fish can be used to control mosquito larvae in some situations. However, the Fisheries Division of the Maine Dept of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife regulates introduction of fish to any body of water. Be sure to check with the Office of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (207-287-5261) to ask about required permits.

Water management -
Every community should consider water management as a very important component of their mosquito reduction program. There are local, state, federal and private agencies that can partner or add assistance (some are listed below) to your management programs. Be sure to check with these regulatory agencies before manipulating any body of water. A recognized solution for salt marsh mosquitoes is called Open Marsh Water Management (OMWM). OMWM promotes habitat for mosquito larvae-eating minnows called mummuichogs. Urban wetlands should be cleared of choking vegetation and debris, which provides ideal mosquito breeding sites. Roadside ditches and culverts should be cleared to avoid water stagnation. Survey and map all urban wetland habitats and prioritize them as to their ability to provide habitat for mosquito larvae and their potential for maintenance or restoration. Survey all storm water basins for mosquito breeding. Basins should have annual maintenance plans that include elimination of choking vegetation (especially invasive species) and debris. All inlets and outlets must be cleared. Culex mosquitoes can breed in storm water basins in large numbers. Alert planning departments that mosquito-breeding habitat should be addressed during site planning for development. Typically, basins are designed to hold shallow, stagnant waters.

Use of burning wicks containing pyrethrum or citronella candles may provide some relief in limited areas, provided that there is no wind. Although expensive, commercial traps that use carbon dioxide and octenol as attractants can be effective in reducing mosquito annoyance when used with other management tools.

Homeowners and camp owners can alleviate the mosquito nuisance indoors by installing and maintaining tight fitting window and door screens and keeping outside lighting to a minimum. The screening of porches and picnic areas may also be a worthwhile consideration. Specific materials for screen treatment containing methoxychlor or permethrin may add to the effectiveness of screens. Space spraying of tents or sleeping areas before use may also help.

Beware of novelty approaches to mosquito control include such things as “bug zappers,” various sound devices, and scented geraniums (“mosquito plants”). While there may be certain psychological benefits to the use of such things, they are usually expensive and there is little scientific evidence to support the claims of those who market such products. There is no sure fire solution to the problems some would assert.

Personal Protection –
The use of protective clothing and insect repellants are two tactics that can provide some personal protection against adult mosquitoes, and are especially suitable for hikers, campers, picnickers, fisherman, and others who are active in mosquito infested areas. Types of protective clothing include veils or mosquito netting worn around the head, high boots, long sleeved shirts, long pants, gloves, etc. Insect netting fashioned into a bed net can also provide excellent protection for those camping or sleeping in the open. As with many biting flies, it is best to avoid the use of colognes and perfumes while in the field as these may enhance biting fly activity!

Insect repellents are chemicals that can be applied to the skin or clothing that will repel mosquitoes and to a lesser extent black flies and ticks. A number of products are available, and come as pressurized sprays, creams, sticks or liquid formulations that are usually spread on exposed parts of the body. The CDC recommends using products that have been shown to work in scientific trials and that contain active ingredients which have been registered with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The two repellents that have demonstrated a higher degree of efficacy in the peer-reviewed, scientific literature are DEET and Picaridin. Studies indicate that oil of lemon eucalyptus, a plant- based repellent, also provides protection similar to low concentrations of DEET. Usually a few drops of repellent applied to the neck, face, hands, and arms or sprayed onto thin clothing items such as stockings can repel mosquitoes for periods of 2 hours or more. Since repellents can irritate the eyes or the lips, care should be taken in their application. Be sure to read the instructions to make sure the repellent won’t harm clothing or especially plastic items. Do not over use repellents. Be especially careful with DEET on young children. For more information regarding the use of repellents visit: http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dvbid/westnile/index.htm 

Clothing treatments with permethrin (a toxicant) products have a long lasting period of effectiveness but cannot be applied directly to the skin; once dried on clothing however, there is little or no transfer of chemical compounds.

Chemical controls
If chemical controls are to be considered for the management of mosquitoes, be sure to consult with professionals. Applying chemicals for the control of mosquitoes is a very sensitive issue, especially because of their association with water. It is best to secure the services of a state certified and licensed pesticide applicator to use the proper chemicals and techniques.

For more information on pesticides and licensing, contact the Board of Pesticides Control (207-287-2731). Before applying any material to water, such as the growth regulator methoprene or the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis (Bti), for the control of larvae, contact the Maine Department of Environmental Protection (DEP (207) 287-7844) to get the needed permits. For management recommendations contact the University of Maine Cooperative Extension Pest Management Office (207-581-3880).

WHEN USING PESTICIDES, ALWAYS FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS!

James F. Dill, Pest Management Specialist Griffin M. Dill, Pest Management Technician
In cooperation with ME DOC, Insect and Disease Laboratory Updated March 2007
Where trade names are used, no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by Cooperative Extension is implied.

MAINE FARM DAYS

An Agricultural Trade Show Held On A Working Farm. Friday and Saturday August 17 & 18, 2007

FREE ADMISSION COME AND VISIT WITH YOUR NEIGHBOR

Maine Farm Days Schedule

Friday 9 - 5

9:00 Exhibit area opens Equipment demos 10:00 Commissioner Brunch Wagon Tours start Mowing, tedding, raking demo Genex AI refresher course 11:00 Equipment demos Farm Bureau Women Maine Young Farmers tractor rodeo 11:10 Develop Farm Safety 12:00 noon Milking Contest 1:00 Equipment demos

Saturday 9- 5

9:00 Exhibit area opens 10:00 Genex AI refresher course Wagon Tours start Tillage Tools 11:00 Farm Bureau Women 11:10 Develop Farm Safety 12:00 noon Milking Contest 1:00 Equipment demos

Workshops for Pesticide Credit Participants receive one (1) re-certification credit per workshop.

A pre-Farm Days exercise is worth one credit to individuals who successfully complete the task. For more information go to www.umext.maine.edu and click on Maine Farm Days.

Friday, August 17, 2007

10 - 11 am (Concurrent session) Insect Identification Exercise Clay Kirby, Extension Pest Management Entomologist, UMaine Extension

10 - 11 am (Concurrent session) Cover Crops & Weed Control in Corn Rick Kersbergen,

11 am - 12 noon What’s Bugging Your Trees? Charlene Donahue, Entomologist, Maine Forest Service

12:30 - 1:30 pm Choosing Pesticides Based on their Chemical Properties Gary Fish, ME Board of Pesticides Control

1:40 - 2:40 pm Weed Identification Walk Barbara Murphy, Extension Educator, Oxford County, UMaine Extension

Saturday, August 18, 2007

10 - 11 am Calculating Pesticide Amounts & Rates - Practical Math for Farmers Mark Hutchinson, Extension Educator, Knox-Lincoln Counties, UMaine Cooperative Ext.

11:10 am - 12:10 pm Pollinators and Pesticides Tony Jadczak, State Apiarist, Maine Department of Ag, Food & Rural Resources

12:30 - 1:30 pm Preventing & Controlling Rodents on the Farm Richard Brzozowski, Extension Educator, Cumberland County, UMaine Cooperative Ext.

1:40 – 2:40 pm Establishing & Improving Pesticide Storage on the Farm Richard Brzozowski, Extension Educator, Cumberland County, UMaine Cooperative Ext.

Directions:
Travel north on I-95 and take the Clinton exit (exit 138). Go right into downtown Clinton and take a left on Rt. 100. After a couple blocks take a left on Railroad Street which will turn into Hill Rd. Follow Hill Rd. until you travel back over I-95 and continue on Hill Road for another 11/2 –2 miles. Misty Meadow Farm is on both sides of the road. People will be available to direct you to parking and the different events at the event.

Have you heard?

It’s All About Listening to the Consumer at Saturday - October 27, 2007 Spectacular Events Center in Bangor, Maine

With all the excitement about buying local, how many of us have stopped to find out from the consumer how to make the experience of buying local better? What do consumers really want? Why do they buy what they buy and where do they buy it? Find out the answers to these questions and more!

The Heart of Maine RC&D and Maine Department of Agriculture are providing Maine farmers with a unique opportunity to hear from consumers first hand. Greg Franklin, a marketing professional from New Hampshire with a background in agriculture, will facilitate a consumer focus group LIVE at an all day marketing workshop especially for Maine farmers. Morning sessions will focus on word of mouth (WOM) marketing. Virginia Miracle, of South Carolina marketing firm Brains on Fire, will share WOM marketing techniques that you can use to encourage people to talk about your product and make it easy for them to do so. To top off the day, Steve Taylor, New Hampshire’s Commissioner of Agriculture for over two decades, will provide his insights about the trends and future of agriculture in New England.

To register and find out more, call Tessa at 947-6622 ext 5 or visit www.heartofmaine.org

Managing Carcass Disposal through Composting

September 12-14, 2007 at Highmoor Farm Experimental Station Monmouth, Maine

Wednesday - Day 1
8:30-9:30 Registration
9:00—10:00 Compost Basics
10:00—10:45 Composting Methods/Systems
10:45—11:00 BREAK
11:00—11:30 Know Your Resources
11:30—12:00 Feedstocks
12:00—1:00 Lunch
1:00—2:00 Feedstocks (continued)
2:00—4:00 Pile Construction Management
4:00—4:30 Discussion: International Issues & Concerns

Thursday - Day 2
8:00-9:30 Site Selection
9:30—9:45 BREAK
9:45—11:15 Troubleshooting
11:15—Noon Epizootic Disease
12:00—1:00 LUNCH
1:00—4:30 Field Trip Rainbow Valley Farm On-Farm Demonstration
4:30 Return to Senator
6:00 Dinner at the Senator

Friday - Day 3
8:00-8:30 Field Trip Review/Discussion
8:30—9:30 Bio-Security
9:30—9:45 BREAK
9:45—10:45 Compost Utilization
10:45—11:45 Elements of ME’s AI Disposal Plan
11:45—12:45 LUNCH
12:45—3:00 Putting Your Knowledge to Work Developing a Management Plan

Pre-registration is required. Cost is $325.00 per person. Registration Deadline September 5, 2007 For registration and details, contact: Mark Hutchinson, markh@umext.maine.edu (207) 832-0343 or Melissa Freeman melissa.freeman@maine.gov (207) 287-1132

Rabies

What Is Rabies?
Rabies is a viral disease of the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord) that is almost always fatal. Rabies in humans is very rare in the United States, but rabies in animals, especially wildlife, is common in some parts of the country. In the past year, there have been several reports of rabid animals in Waldo County.

How is Rabies Spread?
The rabies virus lives in the saliva (spit), brain, and spinal cord tissue of animals and is spread when they bite or scratch. The virus can also be spread if saliva or nerve tissue touches broken skin or a mucous membrane in the mouth, nose, or eye.

What Kinds of Animals Spread Rabies?
The rabies virus can infect any mammal (if it has fur or hair, it’s a mammal), but infection is most common among bats, skunks, fox, and raccoons. Rabies is very rare among rodents (squirrels, rats, mice, and chipmunks). Thanks to vaccines, rabies is extremely rare among pets and farm animals.

How Can You Tell If an Animal Is Rabid?
Rabid animals usually behave abnormally, but signs vary. Some animals may appear shy and fearful, others become aggressive, and some may simply stumble as though drunk or lame. Contact with all animals, especially bats, skunks, fox, and raccoons, should be avoided. Suspect animals who have exposed either a human or domestic animal are tested by the Health and Environmental Testing Laboratory in Augusta.

What Should You Do If You Think That You Have Been Exposed to Rabies?
The most dangerous type of exposure is a bite or scratch from an infected animal that penetrates the skin of a susceptible animal or person. Make sure your pets are vaccinated against rabies. A non-bite exposure occurs when scratches, wounds, or mucous membranes (eyes, nose, throat) are contaminated with saliva or brain tissue from an infected animal. Contact with dried saliva, blood, urine, or feces from an infected animal or petting an animal does not constitute an exposure and would not require post-exposure treatment. Although there may be circumstances in which a non-bite exposure may require treatment, non-bite exposures rarely result in the transmission of rabies. If you think you have been exposed to a rabid animal, follow these steps:

1. Immediately wash the wound with soap and water, and continue washing for at least 10 minutes.

2. Call your doctor or health care professional as soon as you finish washing. They will help you decide if you need to be treated for rabies. Follow their instructions exactly.

3. Contact your town office or local law enforcement agency. They can refer you to the local Animal Control Officer (ACO). The ACO or police officer will need your help in locating the animal that has bitten or scratched you. If the suspected animal is located and captured, it will be quarantined and observed if it’s a dog or cat, or it will be euthanized and sent to the State Health and Environmental Laboratory in Augusta for testing.

4. If your pet has been bitten or scratched by an animal that you think might be rabid, follow the same steps and notify your veterinarian.

How Can You Prevent Rabies?

• Be a responsible pet owner. Make sure your pets are vaccinated against rabies. By law, all dogs and cats must be vaccinated against rabies. Cats especially need to be vaccinated because they are hunters by nature and often have contact with animals at high risk for rabies. By vaccinating household pets, we can establish a buffer between wildlife and humans.

• Teach your children to keep a safe distance from wild animals, strays, and all other animals that they don’t know well. Enjoy all wild animals from a distance, even if they seem friendly! A rabid animal sometimes acts tame. Avoid contact with wild animals, especially bats, skunks, fox, and raccoons.

• Avoid any animal, wild, farm, or domestic, that behaves oddly, and report it to the local ACO.

• Discourage wild animals from "sharing your lunch." Fasten trash can lids tightly. Garbage attracts animals, including skunks and raccoons, who are looking for an easy meal.

• Dogs and cats should not be allowed to roam at large, but should be confined to the owner’s property, preferably on a leash or, better yet, within a fenced area.

• It is against the law to allow your dog, or a dog in your care, to roam. Confinement to the property will lessen the chances of them contacting a rabid animal. If a pet has been in a fight with another animal, wear waterproof gloves while handling the pet. Consult your veterinarian. It is against the law to keep wild animals as pets, including skunks, raccoons, and bats. There are no approved rabies vaccines for wild animals. Hybrids (offspring of wild animals bred with domesticated cats or dogs) are considered wild animals.

• Bats found inside your home, alive or dead, should be tested for rabies - even if there was no known contact with the bat. Talk to a professional exterminator or contractor about "bat proofing" your home.

• Do not handle sick or injured wild animals, including baby animals. Call the police, ACO, or State Game Warden. If you must handle a dead animal, use heavy gloves, sticks, or other tools to avoid direct contact with saliva, brain tissue, or neural fluid.

• If you are bitten or scratched by an unfamiliar animal, do not try to guess if it is rabid. Call your doctor and the ACO for advice.

• ACO’s, veterinarians and their assistants, and others who have contact with strays or wildlife should consider preventative rabies vaccinations to protect themselves before they are exposed to the virus.

Important Telephone Numbers

Human and animal exposure questions: Health and Environmental Testing Laboratory (207) 287-2727 Epidemiology Program (207) 287-5301 24 Hour Emergency Consultation (800) 821-5821

Warden Service (weekdays): Region A (Gray) (207) 657-2345 Region A (Sidney) (207) 547-5300 Region A (Bangor) (207) 941-4440 Region A (Greenville) (207) 695-3756 Region A (Ashland) (207) 435-3231

Animal Control Officer: Call your town office or local police department to contact your local animal control officer.

Domestic animal questions, including livestock: State Veterinarian, Maine Department of Agriculture, Food and Rural Resources, Division of Animal Health and Industries (207) 287-3701

Bat Control Questions:   Maine Department of Agriculture, Food and Rural Resources, Pesticide Control Board (207) 287-2731

Rain Barrels and Drip Irrigation A Match Made in Heaven

This morning just before I left my house I did the most amazing thing. I opened up the valve on my spanking new recycled rain barrel and watched as the free water I had collected off of my roof ran through a short hose to a drip irrigation system I had set up for my raised bed vegetable gardens. I smiled as I drove to work knowing my raised bed gardens which normally dry out so easily will be benefiting from both drip irrigation and free water. And once I add a fish emulsion fertilizer to the barrel I can “fertigate” at the same time.

I have wanted to install a drip system for my raised beds for several years – but the thought of digging trenches for the lines lulled me into procrastination. Enter my friend and rain barrel/drip irrigation enthusiast Sharon England – who convinced me that a rain barrel/drip system was simple and easy to install and would be a boon to my gardens for years to come.

As Sharon explains “the next time it rains imagine all the water that’s running off of your roof being put to beneficial use in your garden as well as recharging your local aquifer!” Rain barrels are designed to collect runoff from your roof. The water you collect normally flows through the downspout, or off your roof, onto a paved surface, into a storm drain, and eventually into a nearby lake, river, or wetland. Rain coming off your roof has very little pollutants. Once it runs over your lawn or into the storm drain, it becomes Stormwater. Stormwater runoff can contain pollutants like sediment, oil grease, bacteria, and nutrients which end up in the lake, river, wetland, or ocean. By collecting some of this rain water in a rain barrel, you can: Collect and direct rain water away from the foundation of your house. Reduce erosion, stormwater pollution, and improve water quality. Reduce household watering needs by saving rain. Up to 40% of summer water is used for irrigation.  Lower water bills Water gardens during city-imposed watering bans. Recycling rain water reduces your personal energy consumption by using less treated water. We are watering our lawns and gardens with potable water! Water your garden naturally with untreated water. Recharge your local groundwater. Possibly provide water to areas that can't be reached by a hose. The amount of rain you can capture in a rain barrel varies depending on the capacity of the rain barrel, the number of rain barrels used, the amount of rainfall, and the roof surface area where the barrel is capturing rainfall.  For every inch of rain that falls on a 1,000 square foot roof, 600 gallons of rain runs off the roof and becomes mainly stormwater. A rain barrel can be set next to any building with or without a gutter to collect rainwater. Rain barrels are child safe, have lids and spigots, and are mosquito-proof. Many rain barrels can be connected together to capture more rainwater.

To keep as many potential contaminants out of the rain water coming off your roof, keep the roof and gutters clear of debris. If you don’t have gutters and downspouts, you can place your barrel in a valley or where rain streams off the roof. Leaf screens on gutters help keep debris from entering the system, but are not required as most barrels are screened. You can adapt your existing downspout by shortening it to empty onto the top of the rain barrel. This may require adding an extension to the downspout at the end of the gardening season to remove the roof runoff. If you don’t want to shorten your existing downspout, you can add a downspout diverter, sold on the internet for $20-26. The diverter allows you to divert the rain to the barrel in the summer and send it down the drain in the winter and works with your existing downspout. Most gardeners set their barrels on cinder blocks or small platforms. A full 55 gallon rain barrel weighs 400 pounds, so make sure the base is level and sturdy. By raising the barrel, you gain access to the spigot for the watering can as well as elevating the barrel to increase the PSI or pressure. You can then use gravity to water your gardens by elevating your barrel above the area to be watered. A 55 gallon rain barrel can water a 100-200 square foot garden; variables are types of soil and plants.

A rain barrel fills up quickly and will need an overflow. This overflow should be directed away from your foundation. The perfect solution for your overflow is to plant a rain garden to absorb the extra run off or to send the water to other vegetation. For an excellent newly released UMaine Extension publication on rain gardens visit this internet site: www.umext.maine.edu/onlinepubs/PDFpubs/2702.pdf 

Be sure to check your system prior to using it in the spring. Clean away any debris from the gutters and make sure your barrel is clean. Fill the systems with a few inches of water and check for leaks. In the fall, empty your barrel and place it so water does not enter it. Water will freeze and expand and could crack the barrel.

The naturally soft rain water in your barrel will improve the health of your gardens. It does not contain minerals, salts, chlorine, fluoride, and other chemicals that you may find in public water or well water. The natural temperature of rainwater doesn't shock plants with cold the way public or well water can. Rain water contains no chlorine. Would you normally spray your plants with a very weak bleach solution? When rains are more infrequent in the heat of summer, bacteria in the water is abundant water treatment plants may add even more chemicals to prevent water born illnesses.

Most companies that sell rain barrels also have available simple to install drip irrigation kits designed for low flow systems as a perfect accompaniment to a rain barrel. Remember, “All watering is not equal” and Rainwater is Free!

Rain barrel companies:

Aaron's Rain Barrels, 86 Watertower Plaza #174, Leominster, MA 01453

New England Rain Barrel Company 131½ Lynnfield St, Peabody, MA 01960

Sky Juice New England, 28 Rumsey Rd, York, ME 03909

Sharon England, Master Gardener Volunteer, University of Maine Cooperative Extension Frank S. Wertheim, Associate Extension Professor, University of Maine Cooperative Extension

RECIPES

Tuna Tomato Macaroni

2 cups dry macaroni
6-ounce can low-sodium tuna (in water), drained
2 14-ounce cans peeled, diced tomatoes with Italian herbs and garlic
½ cup water
4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

1. Combine all ingredients except Parmesan cheese in a shallow, microwaveable container.

2. Cover and microwave on high for 12-15 minutes or until macaroni is tender.

3. Serve each portion with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese on top.

Serves 4. Each 1 cup serving: 330 calories, 3 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, 0 g trans fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 420 mg sodium, 54 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 21 g protein. Diabetic exchanges: 3.5 starch, 1 very lean meat.

Cajun Stuffed Peppers

4 green bell peppers
15-ounce can kidney beans, rinsed, drained
1 cup cooked brown rice
1 teaspoon Cajun spice mix
14-ounce can peeled, diced tomatoes with Italian herbs & garlic
½ cup grated nonfat mozzarella cheese

1. Cut off top of peppers. Hollow out seeds and veins.

2. Mix beans, rice and spices in medium-sized mixing bowl. Fill peppers with this mixture and place in microwave proof container.

3. Place ¼ inch of water in the bottom of the container and cover.

4. Microwave on high for 15 minutes, placing cheese on top the last 4 minutes. Serve with large tossed salad or raw veggie sticks.

Serves: 4 . Each stuffed pepper: 190 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 g trans fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium, 33 mg carbohydrates, 7 g fiber, 12 g protein. Diabetic exchanges: 2 starch, 1 very lean meat.

The Gardener's Corner

By Kathy Hopkins, Extension Educator

Q. How can I tell the difference in hot peppers and what makes them so hot?

A. Hot peppers are hot because of compounds called capsaicin and dihydrocapsaicin. These compounds are not soluble in water but only in fats, oils and alcohol. If you overindulge in hot peppers or condiments made with hot peppers, be sure to drink whole milk to cool the flame instead of water. Capsaicin is a compound that is being investigated by pharmaceutical companies for relieving arthritis pain. Peppers are measured in heat units called Scoville units. The higher the Scoville number, the hotter the pepper is. Here is a chart that rates some well-known peppers for hotness:

Pepper                            From            To

Bell pepper                      0                  0
Cherry peppers                100               500
Ancho, Poblano                1,000            1,500
Jalapeno                         2,500             5,000
Serrano                           5,000             23,000
Cayenne                          30,000           50,000
Chipotle, Thai                  50,000          100,000
Habanero                         100,000         325,000

Parents Are Teachers Too program
If you are expecting or recently had your first baby, call 1-800-287-1426 for more information or to enroll in the PATT program to help your child get the best possible start in life.

Eat Well program
Could you use help in stretching food stamps, cooking and shopping for one or two, providing snacks for children? Contact UMaine Cooperative Extension Eat Well Program for a nutrition aid to help you.

Newsletters available from UMaine Extension Waldo County

• 4-H on the Move – Monthly newsletter covering County, State & National 4-H activities, news, and resources

• Eat Well - Quarterly newsletter featuring food topics, nutrition, health, exercise & food safety, emphasizing our EatWell program

• MGFN - Published quarterly, Maine Grass Farmers Network features articles & events related to raising animals on pasture

• Perspectives - Monthly newsletter with upcoming programming and events in Waldo County, and informative articles from various program areas

• Publications Catalog – Listing all UMaine Extension publications available

Staff

Extension Educators:
Jane Haskell, Business, Youth & Community Development
Rick Kersbergen, Agriculture & Natural Resources

Eat Well Program Staff: Beth Chamberlain, Pat Fraser

4-H Program Aide: Joyce Weaver

Parents Are Teachers, Too Staff: Pam LaHaye, Coordinator, Martha Powers, Diane Russell, Ellie Weider

Extension Support Staff: Sónia Antunes, Connie Clements

Horticultural Aide, Knox-Lincoln-Waldo: Liz Stanley
 
Waldo County Extension Association
President: Barbara Gould
Treasurer: Anne Eaton
 
Alcyone Cross
Andrew Marshall
Rhonda Hutchins
Frank Whiting