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Garlic Production in the Home Garden
Garlic provides flavor to many of our favorite recipes. It's relatively easy to grow, and there are plenty of varieties from which to choose. Now is the time to start thinking about planting some!
Garlic, Allium sativum L., is used as a seasoning in many foods worldwide. It isn't considered a major vegetable because consumption is generally small due to its strong flavor. But without garlic, many of our popular dishes would lack the flavor and character that make them favorites. Fortunately, garlic is relatively easy to grow in the home garden. The most difficult decision may be deciding what kind of garlic to plant since there are over 100 cultivars available from specialty suppliers!
Garlic is thought to have originated in the same area of central Asia as onions. Like the onion, it has been used for culinary and medicinal purposes throughout history. Modern science has shown that sulfur compounds found in garlic account for many of its healthful properties as well as its distinctive flavor. Scientists continue to study the compounds found in garlic to determine how they function in human health.
Kinds of Garlic
There are two main types of garlic- softneck and hardneck (sometimes called stiffneck). Each has several distinct groups and cultivars.
Hardneck garlic produces a woody flower stalk and also is known as "top-setting" garlic because it produces clusters of bulbils after the mostly sterile flowers bloom. Many hardneck types tend to produce large underground bulbs made up of a few large cloves and yield best when planted in the fall. Research has shown that yields will increase if the flower heads are removed before the bulbils form. When removed, the young, tender flower stems can be harvested and used for stir-frying or other dishes. If left to grow, the bulbils, which are about the size of a popcorn kernel, can be eaten or can be planted. Hardneck varieties are also hardier and grow well in Maine. Please note: if bulbils are used for propagation, it will take 2 - 3 years to produce a full-sized bulb. Bulbils can also be planted for garlic greens as described below.
Softneck garlic does not form a woody stalk but has flexible leaves that can be braided. Bulbs of softneck types usually have more individual cloves and yield higher than hardneck types. Softneck types also are generally better adapted to a wide range of climates They can be spring-planted with more success than spring-planted hardneck cultivars. However, garlic connoisseurs say that softneck cultivars lack say the subtle flavor differences found in hardneck cultivars. Growing bulbils The fine, young leaves of sprouted garlic bulbils look like newly sprouted grass. The foliage has a fresh garlic flavor and is excellent when used in salad dressing, stir fry and other recipes that call for fresh garlic. Garlic bulbils grown for greens can be planted directly in the garden or in pots or flats for winter production. If left to grow and not harvested for greens, garlic bulbils will grow into a larger single bulb. These are known as "rounds" and also may occur when small cloves are planted. Rounds also can be caused by poor growing conditions throughout the season or planting a cultivar that is not adapted to local conditions. If thinned and left to grow or if rounds are replanted, they usually will develop into normal full-sized bulbs.
Growing Garlic
Garlic is as easy to grow as onions and produces best when planted in mid to late October. It is most often propagated from planting individual cloves. Vegetative propagation is used because, except for a few recently discovered fertile clones, garlic flowers are sterile and will not produce true seed.
Garlic forms a compound bulb consisting of individually wrapped cloves. Each clove consists of a bud enclosed in two modified leaves. One of the leaves is used by the plant as a food-storage organ, the other leaf forms a thin, dry protective layer.
Just before planting, separate bulbs into their individual cloves and sort by size. Do not divide the bulbs more than a few days before planting because early separation results in decreased yields. Reserve the largest cloves for planting and use the smaller cloves for cooking. Elephant garlic, which is really a bulbing leek, also will yield better if large cloves are planted. Conversely, when planting storage onions and shallots from sets, one should select the smallest bulbs, saving large onion sets for green onion production. In general, removal of bloom stalks will help increase yields of onion family members. However, the flowers can be left if topsets are desired.
Garlic grows best in well-drained, friable loam soils that are fertile and high in organic matter. If your soil is high in clay or sand, add organic matter to break up clay particles for better drainage. Organic matter also will help a sandy soil hold more water.
Gardeners who grow good onion crops can grow garlic. Like onions, garlic needs a steady and fairly high level of nutrients in the soil while actively growing, because the roots lack the hairs that normally aid in nutrient absorption. When preparing soil for planting, apply 3 to 4 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet (or follow soil test recommendations) and spread one to three inches of organic matter such as chopped leaves, dry grass clippings or compost over the soil surface. Use a spading fork to turn over and break up the soil and begin mixing in the organic matter. A rototiller also can be used to prepare the soil, but remember that over-tilling can destroy the soil structure. When incorporating organic matter that must be decayed, such as dry leaves and grass clippings, it is best to do it a few weeks before planting so soil microbes will have a chance to start breaking it down.
Fall planting in Maine is best because dormant cloves and young garlic plants must be exposed to cold temperatures of 32 to 50 degrees F. for one to two months to induce bulb formation. Care should be taken to ensure that they are not planted so deep that the soil will hamper their expansion or so shallow that rain will wash them out. For best yields, garlic should be planted in mid-to-late October in Maine. If planted too early, the plant may develop too much under warm temperatures which will decrease the number of cloves formed the following spring or it may not form any cloves. If planted too late, insufficient root growth will occur before the soil freezes and shoot development will be delayed in the spring.
Garlic cloves should begin growing and then go dormant when cold weather arrives. Plant the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart in an upright position (pointed end up) to ensure good emergence and straight necks. Cover cloves to a depth of about 2 to 3 inches. Allow 12 to 24 inches between rows. Garlic also lends itself well to wide-row planting; space cloves five inches apart in all directions in foot-wide rows or raised beds. This requires considerably less garden space for the same yield, but weeding must be done by hand. Water thoroughly after planting to stimulate growth. The soil must be kept evenly moist during active growth. Dry soil will result in irregularly shaped bulbs. A light application of straw mulch (1 to 2 inches) after the ground freezes in late November will help prevent frost heaving throughout the winter. This mulch can remain in place throughout the following growing season, providing weed control and moisture retention.
If you miss planting in the fall, softnecked bulbs may be planted very early in the spring, in March or April. Early spring planting will provide cool enough temperatures to trigger bulbing and will permit full leaf development. Longer days and warmer temperatures of late spring trigger bulb development. As soon as bulbing starts, leaf initiation ceases. Therefore, for highest yields, the cloves must be planted early enough to permit the development of large vegetative plants during the short cool days of March and April. The yield potential of the plants depends on the amount of vegetative growth before bulbing begins.
Garlic is quite drought-sensitive. A weekly application of one inch of water should increase yields if rainfall is lacking. Garlic has shallow, coarse roots that do not obtain soil nutrients as efficiently as many other crops. Several light applications of nitrogen once vigorous leaf growth appears in the spring are better than a heavily fertilized bed, especially on sandy soils where nitrogen is easily leached. Do not fertilize after the plants have begun bulbing because too much nitrogen while maturing can cause garlic to store poorly. Fall-planted garlic is usually ready to harvest in mid-to late July so one should reduce watering to let the plants dry down a week or so before harvest. The outer bulb covering disintegrates fairly quickly and the bulbs will shatter if they are not harvested at their peak, so one should monitor their development. When the lower 1/3 of the leaves are yellow, dig or pull a few plants to check the development of the bulbs. If the bulbs have segmented into cloves which can be separated, it is time to harvest. If the bulbs haven't yet segmented, leave the remaining plants for a week or two and then check them again. When mature, each bulb should be fully segmented and covered by a tight outer skin.
After pulling, lay the bulbs on screens in the shade or in a well-ventilated room to cure, protecting them from moisture. Bulbs should be cured for 2 - 4 weeks at 75 to 90°F and low humidity. If you want to braid your softneck crop, allow the tops to wilt for 2 - 3 days and then braid them tightly and allow them to finish curing. Tight braids are necessary since the stems will continue to shrink as they dry. If not braided, trim the tops to about 1/2" long and roots to 1/4" after the bulbs have cured. If there is moisture in the stem when you trim the tops, continue to cure the bulbs for a few more days, then check again. Softneck garlic usually takes longer to cure because there are more layers of cloves in each bulb. Leave the outer covering on to reduce moisture loss and mechanical damage. Store garlic in mesh bags so there is good air circulation around the bulbs.
Storing Fresh Garlic
Commercially, garlic is stored near 32°F. Home refrigerators are too warm for ideal long-term storage. Garlic begins sprouting when stored at 42 to 52°F. Instead, store bulbs in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place, in well-ventilated containers such as mesh bags. Storage life is three to five months depending on the variety, when stored in cool (~60°F), dry, dark conditions. The relative humidity in storage should be 60 to 70% to reduce root formation and mold growth.
Choosing Cultivators
Since garlic is susceptible to viruses which may lower yields, it is a good idea to purchase garlic for planting from a certified disease-free source. Bulbs may be available from local garden stores or can be purchased from mail order sources. Do not plant bulbs from the grocery store. These may have been treated with a sprout inhibitor and may also carry viruses or diseases.
Types of Garlic
Within the 2 main types of garlic, there are 5 groups. Hardneck garlic groups include Purple Striped, Porcelain and Rocambole. Softneck garlic groups include Artichoke & Silverskin.
Within each group are several varieties or cultivars. The most distinct growing types are the Rocamboles. The plants send up flower stalks (scapes - pictured below) that are distinctly twisted or coiled, sometimes even double-coiled. This coiling is perfectly normal and is not the result of any poor cultural practice or herbicide contamination. As the plants mature, the scapes uncoil and bulbils are formed in the inflorescence. Many people harvest scapes to use in cooking and are quite delicious and flavorful. Removal of the scapes may also improve the size of the developing bulbs. Porcelain cultivars have very large cloves that are sometimes mistaken for Elephant Garlic. They have very tall seed stalks, white wrappers & store well.
Purple Stripe cultivars usually have 8 - 12 long, crescent-shaped cloves and are covered with purple-striped outer wrappers. They are recommended for cooking because the flavor is retained well. Pests Garlic has few pest problems. To prevent problems with bulb rots and root maggots, avoid areas of the garden where you have previously grown onions or garlic. Occasionally, the onion maggot larva can be seen in the garlic cloves upon harvesting. The typical symptom is premature dying of the leaf tips. Control involves sanitation since insecticides are not available for use on this pest. Onion maggot is only a problem following wet, cold periods on soils high in organic matter.
Good cultural practices can limit damaging insect populations. Destroy or bury plant residue after harvest to eliminate overwintering sites.
Blue Mold Rot
Before planting, check each clove for signs of blue mold rot caused by Penicillium spp. This storage disease causes pitting followed by a dry shriveling of the clove and eventually the production of an obvious powdery blue-green mold. It occurs if garlic is harvested prematurely or if stored under poor ventilation. Careful selection of cloves at planting can reduce the incidence of this disease. Discard any infected cloves or bruised cloves as they will decay in the soil and not grow.
Why did my garlic turn blue?
All garlic contains anthocyanins, water-soluble pigments that can turn blue or purple under acidic conditions. When garlic is used in canning pickles, the blue color may develop. Bluish garlic is usually seen in canned products when the garlic is immature or under-cured, but may also occur when garlic and lemon are combined in a recipe. The blue color does not affect the taste or edibility of the product.
Can I make garlic oil or vinegar?
Regardless of its flavor potency, garlic is a low-acid vegetable. The pH of garlic is in the range of 5.3 to 6.3 which will support the growth and subsequent toxin production of the bacterium Clostridium botulinum.
Moisture, room temperature, lack of oxygen and low-acid conditions all favor the growth of Clostridium botulinum. When growing, the bacterium produces an extremely potent, but tasteless toxin that causes the illness botulism. If untreated, death can result within a few days of consuming the toxic food. Fresh garlic-in-oil mixtures stored at room temperature provide these perfect conditions for producing the botulism toxin. Homemade preparations of garlic-flavored oil should be stored in the freezer. Do not store garlic-in-oil at room temperature or in the refrigerator!! Garlic also may be pureed in oil and stored in the freezer. Peel and then puree the cloves in a blender or food processor using 2 parts vegetable or olive oil to 1 part garlic. The puree will stay soft enough in the freezer to scrape out needed amounts for stir-frying or sautéing. Peeled, lightly mashed cloves may be submerged in wine or vinegar and stored in the refrigerator. Dry white or red wine or white or wine vinegars may be used. The garlic/liquid mixture should not be used after 4 months in the refrigerator and should be discarded. Do not store at room temperature! Discard both the cloves and the liquid if there are signs of mold or yeast growth on the surface of the wine or vinegar.
Garlic and Human Health
Garlic has been used in folk medicine for thousands of years to treat all sorts of ailments. Today, scientists continue to research and debate the benefits of garlic in human health. Numerous scientific papers have been published on the various effects of garlic on human and animal subjects. You can find more information on scientific studies at research libraries and by searching on the Worldwide Web.
One of the benefits that garlic may have is lowering total serum cholesterol and triglycerides while raising HDL (good cholesterol) and lowering LDL (bad) cholesterol. Allicin, which forms once a clove is crushed or otherwise damaged, is believed by some scientists to be one of the beneficial compounds in garlic. In double blind studies using garlic supplements, people who took the equivalent of one clove of garlic per day for several weeks had a significant improvement in their serum cholesterol levels, lowering it an average of 12%.
Ajoene is a breakdown component of allicin and helps to prevent clumping of platelets. Garlic inhibits the formation of fibrinogen which promotes formation of blood clots. You should inform your doctor if you regularly take garlic supplements or consume raw garlic, especially if you are taking a blood-thinning medicine or routinely use aspirin. Garlic also has shown promise in cultures and laboratory animals as an anti-carcinogen. Research at Pennsylvania State University has shown that if allicin is destroyed by heat before it has reacted with allicinase, beneficial compounds are not formed. So, when preparing fresh garlic, peel and prepare the cloves and let them sit 10-15 minutes before heating. Future research will hopefully give us a better understanding of how garlic works in the human body.
This brief overview of garlic in human health is meant to increase your knowledge of ongoing research in the use of plants for medicinal purposes. Because everyone is different, a physician must diagnose conditions and supervise the use of healing herbs to treat individual health problems. You should talk with your doctor before adding supplements or large amounts garlic or onions to your diet. Since onions and garlic can increase blood clotting time, one should be especially careful if one already takes prescription anti-coagulants.
Pet owners should be aware that while many animals like the flavor of garlic and cooked onions, they can make cats, dogs, horses, cattle and other animals very ill. Compounds in garlic and onions destroy the red blood cells of many animal species causing hemolytic anemia. Prolonged feeding of garlic or onions may cause death of the animal. If you have a question concerning consumption of any plant or plant part by your animal, contact a veterinarian.
Note: Portions of this article were modified for Maine by Extension Educators Liz Stanley and Rick Kersbergen. The original text came from:
Duke, James A. 1999. Dr. Duke's Essential Herbs. St. Martin's Press. ISBN 1-57954-183-6 Lau, Benjamin. 1999. Garlic and You: the Modern Medicine. Apple Pub Co Ltd; ISBN: 1896817025
By: Susan D. Schoneweis, Extension Coordinator-Home/Environmental Horticulture and Laurie Hodges, Extension Specialist, Commercial Vegetables From NebGuide, Published by the University of Nebraska – Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources
© 2001, The Board of Regents of the University of Nebraska on behalf of the University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension. All rights reserved.
Great Maine Apple Day, Saturday October 20, 2007
10:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. At MOFGA’s Common Ground Education Center in Unity. Great Maine Apple Day is a celebration of the history, flavor, and tradition of Maine apples and apple growers.
The day will include workshops on growing, processing, and cooking apples, rare and heirloom Maine variety display and tasting, cider pressing, and locally-produced foods such as breads and cheeses for sale. We are also planning to feature fruit wine and cider tasting this year.
Educational Workshops on growing, processing, and cooking apples * fruit tree pruning * cooking with apples * bread baking * Maine's rich apple history * * wine and cider making * organic tree care *
Rare and heirloom Maine variety display and tasting Maine's premier fruit explorer John Bunker will bring an enormous collection of hundreds of varieties * bring your own varieties to show and taste *
Help identifying your mystery variety * John Bunker and others will be on hand to help you *
Lots of vendors of local and organic apples, apple products, cheeses and other local handmade products, including: Bert's Awesome Stuff * Appledore Cove * Pastor Chuck's * Spruce Mountain Blueberries * Sewall's Orchard * * The Apple Farm & Lakeside Orchard * Greensweet Orchard * Angelina's * State of Maine Cheese Co. *
Cider pressing and kids activities 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. Admission: $4 ($2 for members of MOFGA and The Maine Pomological Society) more details added continually -- check back often! Sponsored by MOFGA, Fedco, and the University of Maine Cooperative Extension
The Gardener's Corner by Kathy Hopkins
Ask Kathy:
Q. The summer storms have destroyed some of my trees and caused major damage. How do I know if I need an arborist?
An arborist is anyone who, for compensation, takes down or fells, diagnoses or evaluates the condition of shade or ornamental trees; solicits, recommends or supervises the treatment of those trees; or in any manner or for any purpose treats or cares for those trees. The arborist program of the Maine Division of Plant Industry licenses individuals to perform arboriculture work in Maine. The Division compiles a list of licensed arborists and a list of companies that employ licensed arborists in Maine. You can find the list at: www.maine.gov/agriculture/pi/arborist
How do know if you should hire an arborist or do the work yourself?
Ask yourself these questions: Can you do the work from the ground? Does the work involve only hand pruners or a pole saw? Are the trees or shrubs less than 10 feet tall? Are the trees or shrubs located on your property?
If the answer is yes, you can probably do the work yourself.
When should you hire a professional?
Do you have to leave the ground to do the work or need equipment like a ladder? Do you need to use a chainsaw? Are looking to get a neighbor to help you out? Is the tree near power lines? Is your tree near enough to your house to cause damage as it falls?
If you answered yes to any of these questions, you should think about hiring an arborist.
RECIPES
Apple Cheese Bake
Crustless pie with apples, spices & ricotta cheese
3 lrg baking apples- peel, core & slice thin
¼ cup apple juice concentrate
1 tablespoon apple pie spice
2 tablespoons corn starch
1 cup low fat ricotta cheese
¼ cup silken light tofu (firm)
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Serves 6 - 1 slice each. Total Prep & Cook Time: 50 min (5 Prep, 45 Cook)
Nutrition Information: Diabetic Exchanges: Bread & Starch: 1.0, Calories 120, Total Fat 2g, Saturated Fat 0g, Trans Fat 0g, Cholesterol 0mg, Sodium 190mg, Carbohydrates 20g, Dietary Protein 5g, Sugars 8g, Fiber 1g, Vitamin A 0iu (0%), Vitamin C 2.4mg (4%), Calcium 60mg (6%), Iron 0mg (0%)
Garlic and Parmesan Potatoes
1 sheet (12 x 36 inch) non-stick aluminum foil
4 medium red potatoes, bite-size pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoons rosemary
Salt and pepper
½ cup shredded Parmesan cheese
Preheat oven to 450° or grill to medium-high.
Center potatoes evenly on sheet of foil with non-stick (dull) side toward food. Drizzle with oil. Sprinkle with garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper.
Bring up foil sides. Double fold top & ends to seal making one large foil packet, leaving room for heat circulation inside.
Bake 30-35 minutes on cookie sheet in oven or 15-20 min. in covered grill. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese before serving.
Broccoli and Mushrooms with Rosemary
2 tsp. olive oil
2-3 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups chopped broccoli
2 cups sliced button or Cremini mushrooms
1 Tbsp chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 tsp dried)
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
In large skillet, heat oil over medium heat.
Add garlic and sauté 1 minute.
Add mushrooms and sauté 3 minutes, until mushrooms release juice.
Add broccoli and rosemary and cook 3 to 5 minutes or until broccoli is crisp-tender.
Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Nutritional Information: (per serving): 27 Calories,1 gram Fat, 3 grams Carbohydrate, 2 grams Protein, 11 mg Sodium
Reprinted with permission from the American Institute for Cancer Research. Visit them at http://www.aicr.org/information/recipe
Recipes from: Communicating Food For Health, Wisconsin Extension
State offers FREE Disposal of Banned of Banned, Unusable Pesticides in October
Hundreds of Maine citizens live unaware of a quiet crisis lurking in or near their homes. In barns, basements, sheds, or garages throughout the state reside tons of banned and unusable pesticides: old chemicals with infamous names like DDT, lead arsenate, 2,4,5-T, and chlordane.
Often, new owners of older homes or farms discover they have inherited hazardous waste. When they do, citizens face a dilemma: hire an expensive hazardous waste disposal service or dump the chemicals illegally, inviting harm to the environment and public health.
Fortunately, there’s a third option that’s both legal and responsible. Even better, it’s free, simply by contacting the Maine Board of Pesticides Control (BPC). During the first week of October 2007, the state regulatory agency will dispose of banned pesticides or pesticides that have become caked, frozen, or otherwise rendered unusable. And, again, there is no cost to homeowners.
“We urge people holding these chemicals to contact us immediately to register,” says Paul Schlein, BPC Public Information Officer. “There will be four sites throughout the state where folks will be able to bring their obsolete pesticides.” The collected chemicals go to out-of-state disposal facilities licensed by the US EPA where they are incinerated or reprocessed.
“While offering free obsolete pesticide disposal is expensive for us,” notes Schlein, “it’s a bargain, compared to the cost of cleaning up contaminated soil or water. However, it’s worth noting that future funding is not guaranteed, so be sure to take advantage of this year’s collection while you can.” To register, find out collection dates and locations, and learn important information about the temporary storage and transportation of obsolete pesticides, go to the BPC Web site at http://www.maine.gov/agriculture/pesticides/public/obsolete.htm or, call the BPC at 287-2731.
Free Signs Will Increase Safety for Maine Farmers
University of Maine Cooperative Extension and several farm equipment dealers have joined forces to offer free “Slow-Moving-Vehicle” (SMV) signs to Maine farmers this year. These bright signs—fluorescent orange triangles bordered with reflective red—are mounted on the rear of farm tractors and implements traveling slower than 25 miles per hour in order to warn motorists of the slow-moving vehicle. Farmers that would like to obtain a free SMV sign should contact UMaine Extension at 800-287-1471. Farmers will receive a coupon and safety packet about how to use the sign and about the use of tractors on public roads. Farmers can then pick up their sign or signs (up to two per farmer) at their nearest participating farm-equipment dealer before Oct 31. Many Maine farmers and farm workers are moving equipment, livestock, hay and crops with tractors, and on public roads this can be a dangerous situation. The reflective border of the SMV sign defines the shape of the fluorescent color in daylight, and creates a hollow red triangle when illuminated by headlights at night.
Participating farm-equipment dealers include:
For more than 90 years, University of Maine Cooperative Extension has supported UMaine’s land-grant public education role by conducting community-driven, research-based programs in every Maine county.
Parents Are Teachers Too program
If you are expecting or recently had your first baby, call 1-800-287-1426 for
more information or to enroll in the PATT program to help your child get the
best possible start in life.
Eat Well program
Could you use help in stretching food stamps, cooking and shopping for one or
two, providing snacks for children? Contact UMaine Cooperative Extension Eat
Well Program for a nutrition aid to help you.
Newsletters available from UMaine Extension Waldo County
4-H on the Move – Monthly newsletter covering County, State & National 4-H activities, news, and resources
Eat Well - Quarterly newsletter featuring food topics, nutrition, health, exercise & food safety, emphasizing our EatWell program
Perspectives - Monthly newsletter with upcoming programming and events in Waldo County, and informative articles from various program areas
Publications Catalog – Listing all UMaine Extension publications available
Staff
Extension Educators:
EAT WELL NUTRITION STAFF:
4-H PROGRAM AIDE:
PARENTS ARE TEACHERS, TOO STAFF:
SENIOR COMPANION PROGRAM:
Ruth Emmet
EXTENSION SUPPORT STAFF:
Sónia Antunes, Connie Clements
Also:
Waldo County Extension Association
PRESIDENT: Barbara Gould
SECRETARY: Lucia (Chia) Murdock
TREASURER:
Michelle Gharst
Jacqui Lee
Andrew Marshall
Robert Nelson
Anne Rothrock
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