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Extension Perspectives

                      Waldo County Cooperative Extension's Monthly Newsletter                        

We will be CLOSED Monday, April 21 in observance of Patriot’s Day

Spring Garden Celebration!

ï Saturday, April 26^th at Unity College ð

9:00am - 2:30pm

Unity College, Quaker Hill Rd, Unity ME

 Proceeds will benefit the Waldo County Extension Association Scholarship fund

Form complete details, visit www.umext.maine.edu/Waldo/SGC

Lilacs have been part of the New England landscape for over 250 years. In Maine, a large stand of them may be the only hint of where an old farm once prospered. Introduced into America from England, they’re still one of the most versatile and hardy ornamental shrubs for today’s gardens. All lilacs belong to the genus Syringa, but since their initial introduction, hundreds of new species and hybrids have been developed - some able to survive temperatures of -60ºF.

Lilac cultivars have been bred to have unusual leaf shapes, flowers, and fragrance. They can also vary remarkably in form - short and round, vase-shaped, tall and wide, tall and narrow or a combination of these shapes. Their size depends on species, cultivar, and age. The common white lilac which graces many Maine dooryards can grow up to 20 feet tall.

Lilac flowers come in white, violet, pale blue, lilac, pink, red and purple. Color, fragrance and flowering time varies between cultivar and species, and weather and environment can make a difference, too. Most lilacs flower for two weeks from mid-May into the second week in June. Early mild conditions will stimulate early flowering, and late spring frosts and ice storms may injure flower buds.

When selecting a lilac, what should you look for? According to the Arnold Arboretum, “The best of the best lilacs for New England gardens should be those that are highly fragrant, display many flowers at eye (and nose) level, resist mildew and leafroll necrosis, produce new growth that does not obscure the flowers, and have enough suckers to replace old or injured stems.”

When choosing a lilac, keep in mind how you want to use them, and research varieties that will fit your space. Some of the most popular include: Syringa vulgaris, the common or French hybrid lilac, with heart-shaped dark green leaves and fragrant flowers from white to purple. Cultivars grow from 8 to 20 feet. Syringa meyiri, ‘Palibin’ lilac, has purple-violet flowers, a broadly rounded shape, growing slowly to only 4 to 8 feet but flowering young. Syringa chinensis, the ‘Chinese’ lilac has delicate purple-lilac flowers and graceful arching branches. A cross between the Persian and common lilac, it grows 8-15 feet tall. Syringa patula, the Manchurian (or Korean) lilac, has purple flowers, dense foliage (with an unusual fall color), and grows from 5 to 8 feet tall and wide. A popular cultivar is ‘Miss Kim’.  Syringa reticulata, or Japanese tree lilac, is often listed as a small tree, growing 25 feet high and 20 feet wide, bearing white flowers later than most lilacs. Syringa Pekinensis, the Chinese tree lilac, grows to 20 feet high. The flowers are a creamy yellow-white.

Plant large lilac varieties at least 12-15 feet apart to provide ample room as they grow. Also avoid planting them too close to foundations and where there will be competition with other trees and shrubs.  Lilacs are adaptable but perform best in full sun in soils that are slightly alkaline, high in organic matter, moderately fertile with good drainage. When planting a lilac, dig a hole three times as wide as the root ball, and no deeper than it was in the burlap ball or pot. Place the plant in the planting hole with the trunk flare ½ -1 inch above the surrounding grade to allow for settling. Water thoroughly as needed for the first season until the plant is well established. Like all new trees and shrubs, don’t be tempted to fertilize in the first year.

Because lilacs tend to be long-lived, they may eventually suffer from poor blooming. The usual causes are:

· Shade and/or wet feet. Lilacs grow best in full sun and well-drained soil.

· Too much nitrogen, which feeds shoots and foliage at the expense of flowers.

· Pruning too late in the season, which removes next year's flower buds. Prune immediately after flowering. This also promotes air circulation, which can prevent powdery mildew.

· Ancient wood. Lilacs flower best on middle-aged branches, so remove about one third of the oldest branches at ground level each year after flowering.

· Poor vigor due to scale or borers. Removing older stems will help control these insects. Oystershell scale may require a spray of insecticidal soap or summer oil in late May. Be sure to read and follow all label directions.

Ice and snow damage. Renewal pruning as outlined above will help.

If you’d like to see some spectacular lilacs this spring, visit the Lyle-Littlefield Gardens at the University of Maine at Orono. The Arnold Arboretum in Boston celebrates “Lilac Sunday” each year with over 400 plants. Or you can simply take a stroll through almost any town in Maine.

UMaine Extension Offers Small-Scale Gardening Workshop

University of Maine Cooperative Extension invites all gardeners to attend “Enjoy Your Garden With Containers and Raised Beds,” a day-long program on small-scale gardening being held throughout the state of Maine at 11 locations. Each workshop begins with check-in at 8:45 a.m. and ends at 3:30 p.m. Gardeners should bring a lunch; beverages will be provided. The fee of $5 covers printed handouts and workshop materials. A limited number of scholarships are available. Pre-registration is required.

To register or for more information, please call UMaine Extension’s Oxford County office at 207-743-6329 (800-287-1482 in Maine) or e-mail bmurphy@umext.maine.edu.

“This workshop is for gardeners who have felt overwhelmed with their past gardens and are looking for quick and easy ways to grow their own produce on a small scale,” says Donna Coffin, Extension educator. “Container and raised bed gardens are a great way for new gardeners to get started and have a successful year growing vegetables, fruits or flowers.”

The dates and locations for the programs are:

April 2 Longfellow’s Greenhouse, Manchester

April 9 UMaine’s Hutchinson Center, Belfast

For more than 90 years, University of Maine Cooperative Extension has supported UMaine’s land-grant public education role by conducting community-driven, research-based programs in every Maine county.

When It Comes to Red Cabbage, More Is Better

By Rosalie Marion Bliss

Plant pigments called anthocyanins provide fruits and vegetables with beneficial blue, purple and red coloring. Now Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists are learning more about these compounds and their absorption into the human blood stream.

Anthocyanins are a group of healthful compounds that fall within the flavonoid class of plant nutrients. ARS scientists have identified 36 anthocyanins in red cabbage, including eight that had never before been detected in the cabbage.

The study was conducted at the ARS Beltsville Human Nutrition Research Center (BHNRC) in Beltsville, Md., where scientists have pioneered methods for identifying and measuring various phytonutrients in fruits and vegetables. Physiologist Janet Novotny, nutritionist Beverly Clevidence, plant physiologist Steven Britz and research associate Craig Charron, all with the BHNRC's Food Components and Health Laboratory, published the findings in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

Emerging evidence suggests that anthocyanins may provide cancer protection, improve brain function and promote heart health. An earlier ARS study showed that some anthocyanins yield twice the antioxidant power of the same amount of vitamin C in test tubes, though the amount absorbed by the human body was not explored.

Twelve volunteers consumed three different amounts of cooked red cabbage along with a full diet of carefully controlled foods. Each volunteer completed three two-day meal regimens, which included 2/3 cup, 1-1/3 cups, or 2 cups of red cabbage. The volunteers were capable of absorbing the most anthocyanins when given the largest serving of cooked cabbage.

Interestingly, the anthocyanins that the researchers identified were not equally absorbed, as measured by the portion of the ingested compound that reached the blood stream. Nearly 80 percent of cabbage anthocyanins tested were "acylated," meaning attached to acyl groups, which made them more stable and less absorbable. The non-acylated anthocyanins present were at least four times more bioavailable, or absorbed, than the acylated anthocyanins.

The findings could aid plant breeders in developing varieties with key anthocyanin structures and amounts.

ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency.

The Gardener's Corner by Kathy Hopkins

Starting Seedlings Indoors

For many home gardeners, it's fun to get a head start on the upcoming garden season by starting seedlings indoors. Growing quality seedlings indoors requires high quality seeds, a well-drained, disease-free growing medium, containers, proper temperature and moisture conditions, and most importantly, adequate light.

Various containers can be used to germinate and grow transplants. Gardeners can purchase flats, trays, pots, and other commercial products. Cut-off milk cartons or plastic jugs, paper cups, yogurt containers and egg cartons can also be used to start seeds. Previously used flats, trays, and pots should be cleaned and disinfected before use. Wash the containers in soapy water, then disinfect them in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and nine parts water. Holes should be punched in the bottom of milk cartons, jugs, paper cups, and similar containers to allow for drainage.

When sowing seeds in flats or trays, fill the container with the growing medium to within 1/2 inch of the top. Firm the medium, water thoroughly, then allow it to drain. Fine seeds are usually dusted on the surface, then lightly pressed into the surface of the growing medium. Large seeds should be covered with growing medium to a thickness of one to two times their diameter. After sowing the seeds, water the seeds by misting with a hand held sprayer.  To insure a uniform moisture level during germination, cover the container with clear plastic wrap or place in a clear plastic bag. Poke a few holes in the plastic to allow for plenty of air circulation.   Set the container in bright light, but out of direct sunlight. Extremely high temperatures may develop if the covered container is set in direct sunlight. These high temperatures may adversely affect germination. A medium temperature of 70 to 75°F is adequate for the germination of most flowers and vegetables. Remove the plastic covering or bag as soon as germination occurs.

The correct indoor sowing dates for several popular flowers and vegetables are: late January — geranium, pansy;  late March — pepper, eggplant, petunia, and salvia; late March — impatiens, begonia, zinnia, marigold, tomato, cabbage, broccoli and, cauliflower; and  late April — muskmelon, watermelon, squash, and cucumber. If unsure of the sowing date, check the seed packet for information.  

Once the seeds have germinated, move the seedlings to an area with slightly cooler temperatures and direct sun or place under fluorescent lights. Transplant the seedlings growing in flats into individual containers when the second pair of "true" leaves appear. Large-seeded plants that were sown two to three seeds per container should be thinned to one seedling per container. Destroy the weak seedlings by cutting them off with a razor blade.

Short, stocky, dark green seedlings are the best quality transplants. For best results, grow seedlings under fluorescent lights. It isn't necessary to have "grow lights" or a fancy light stand. A standard fluorescent shop fixture with two 40-watt tubes (one cool white and one warm white) works fine. The fluorescent lights should be no more than 4 to 6 inches above the plants. They should be lit 12 to 16 hours per day. Plants grown in a window often become tall and spindly because of inadequate light and die when transplanted in the garden.

Thoroughly water the seedlings when the soil surface becomes dry to the touch. Fertilize weekly with a one-quarter strength houseplant fertilizer. Finally, harden or condition the seedlings outdoors for several days in partial sun before planting them into the garden.

Can I Still Plant These Seeds?

At the end of a long Maine winter, there’s no reminder of spring like hunkering down with a stack of seed catalogs and planning next year’s garden.  You start the list of old favorites and enticing new selections.  Then, that nagging voice chimes in:  “What about those old seeds?  Aren’t they still good?”  For me, that means a trip to the basement, where I dig out the plastic shoe box full of other summers’ choices and coated with a layer of other gardens’ dust.  Here are some tips to help you decide what to do with those old seeds.

Different seed types will stay useable for varying amounts of time.  Stored well, vegetables can last for up to:

{ 1-2 years:  corn, onion, parsley, parsnip, pepper

{ 3-4 years:  asparagus, bean, broccoli, carrot, celery, leek, pea, spinach

{ 4-5 years:  beet, chard, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, turnip, radish, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, muskmelon, pumpkin, squashes, tomato, watermelon

But what about those flower seeds or that variety you still have seed for, but can’t find new anywhere?  Then you will want to do a germination test to see what percent of the seeds are still alive and viable.  Use 2-3 moist paper towels, and lay them out flat.  Place 25 – 50 seeds on the towels, roll them loosely, and place in a plastic bag.  Put this bag in a warm place and check every two days.  Make note of the number of seeds that germinate.  If no seeds sprout, then it’s off to the seed catalogs.  If nearly all sprout, then you’re in good shape with what you have.  And if some sprout and some don’t, then you have a choice.  You can either plant extra seeds (maybe even 2 or 3 times what you would normally plant) and thin them later, or you can go ahead and buy new.

Proper storage can help you get more use from your garden seeds in the future.  Keep them in a cool, dry place away from insects and rodents.  A fact sheet from Oregon State University Extension Service suggests storing seeds in a tightly closed glass jar and putting it in the freezer.  A small cloth bag filled with ½ cup dry, powdered milk can be used to absorb moisture in the jar.

So, check out those old seeds, and then you can dream of pretty new flower varieties and tasty new vegetables guilt-free!

Caragh Fitzgerald
Extension Educator, Kennebec and Waldo Counties

Parents Are Teachers Too program
If you are expecting or recently had your first baby, call 1-800-287-1426 for more information or to enroll in the PATT program to help your child get the best possible start in life.

Eat Well program
Could you use help in stretching food stamps, cooking and shopping for one or two, providing snacks for children? Contact UMaine Cooperative Extension Eat Well Program for a nutrition aid to help you.

Newsletters available from UMaine Extension Waldo County

• 4-H on the Move – Monthly newsletter covering County, State & National 4-H activities, news, and resources

• Eat Well - Quarterly newsletter featuring food topics, nutrition, health, exercise & food safety, emphasizing our EatWell program

• Perspectives - Monthly newsletter with upcoming programming and events in Waldo County, and informative articles from various program areas

• Publications Catalog – Listing all UMaine Extension publications available

Staff

Extension Educators:

• Jane Haskell: Business, Youth & Community Development
• Rick Kersbergen: Agriculture & Natural Resources

EAT WELL NUTRITION STAFF:

• Sandy Dubay, Regional Nutrition Education Professional
• Beth Chamberlain, Pat Fraser: Eat Well Nutrition Associates

4-H PROGRAM AIDE:

• Joyce Weaver

PARENTS ARE TEACHERS, TOO STAFF:

• Pam LaHaye, Coordinator
• Martha Powers, Diane Russell, Ellie Weider

EXTENSION SUPPORT STAFF:

• Sónia Antunes

• Annette Hanser

Also:

• Liz Stanley, Horticultural Aide, Knox-Lincoln-Waldo county
• Caragh Fitzgerald, Ext. Educator, Kennebec & Waldo county

 
Waldo County Extension Association
PRESIDENT: Barbara Gould
SECRETARY: Lucia (Chia) Murdock
TREASURER:

Michelle Gharst
Jacqui Lee
Andrew Marshall
Robert Nelson
Anne Rothrock