Guidelines for Using Manure
on Vegetable Gardens
Bulletin
#2510
Updated and revised by Richard Kersbergen, Extension professor and
cooperating professor in animal and veterinary sciences.
Originally developed by Mahmoud El-Begearmi, Extension professor.
Publicity about E. coli outbreaks has made people more aware of
the risk of food-borne illness. As a result, many people are asking
about the safety of using manure on vegetable gardens.
Animal manure can contain bacteria such as Listeria, Salmonella,
and E. coli 0157:H7, as well as roundworms and tapeworms. These
tiny organisms are called pathogens because they may cause disease.
Pathogens can pass from animal manure to humans through direct contact
between contaminated manure and fresh fruit and vegetables.
| Note: some
people may be more at risk for food-borne illness and
should not eat uncooked vegetables from manured gardens.
Those who should be most careful include pregnant women,
the elderly, very young children, and those with health
issues such as cancer, kidney failure, chronic liver
disease, diabetes, or AIDS. |
To reduce the risk of disease transmission, food safety experts suggest
that you follow these safe gardening practices:
-
Use composted manure.
Composting manure with your yard and garden waste helps
reduce
the risk of contaminating your garden vegetables with pathogens.
Ensuring that your compost pile reaches a temperature of 140°F will
further reduce the risk. For more information on home composting,
contact your University of Maine Cooperative Extension
county office.
Commercially processed manure, available in garden centers, should
indicate on the package if it is pathogen-free.
-
Never use cat, dog, or pig manure in vegetable
gardens or compost piles.
Parasites that may be in these types of manure are more likely to
survive and infect people than those in other types of manure. It is
also important to keep your pets out of your vegetable garden.
-
Use water that meets safe drinking standards to
irrigate your vegetables
(for water testing information, contact your
county UMaine
Extension office). This is most important within one month of
harvest. If you use any water that is not drinkable (potable), such
as water from old dug wells or rain barrels, to irrigate your
garden, it is best to use drip (trickle) irrigation to both conserve
water and minimize the contamination of leafy vegetables that can
occur with overhead irrigation. Information on simple trickle
irrigation techniques is available at your county UMaine Extension
office.
If you do intend to use raw manure as a soil amendment or fertilizer
source on your garden, follow these guidelines:
-
Apply raw manure at least 120 days before harvesting
a crop that has the potential for soil contact
(leafy greens, root crops, etc). The USDA National Organic Program (NOP)
standards allow a 90-day period between manure application and
harvest for crops that don’t have direct contact potential with
soil.
-
For some gardeners in Maine, the best time to apply
raw manure to your garden may be in the fall after harvest;
incorporate it into the soil and plant a cover crop to hold
nutrients over the winter. This should be done before October 1 for
good cover crop establishment.
-
Never use raw manure as a sidedress to growing
plants.
Manure that is incorporated and distributed throughout the soil has
a much lower risk of passing pathogens to the growing crop.
-
Consider the source
if you still want to use raw manures in your garden. Are the animals
in the herd or flock healthy? Is there a parasite problem that
requires regular deworming? Does the farm use antibiotics as a
regular component of their feeding program?
This
information is adapted from Guidelines for Using Manure on Vegetable
Gardens with the permission of Washington State University
Extension.
Reviewed by Beth Calder,
Extension professor and assistant professor of food science; and David
Handley, Extension professor and cooperating professor of horticulture. |