Tips for a Long Lasting Poinsettia
If you know how to care for it, you can easily keep your poinsettia looking good through late March, early April, and beyond. At some point you face the decision whether to prune it severely and grow the poinsettia as a leafy green houseplant or simply throw it onto the compost pile. If you're ambitious, you could prune it, put it outdoors for the summer, then force it into bloom again for next December. Unless you can provide ideal growing conditions, however, you may be somewhat disappointed with the results.
Here's a checklist for keeping your poinsettia looking its best this winter:
· Make sure the plant is wrapped well when you bring it home; unwrap it as soon as it's indoors. Even a few seconds of frost can kill a poinsettia.
· Expose it to at least six hours of bright light daily. The foliage needs good light for photosynthesis. If you don't care about keeping it more than a few weeks, you can put your poinsettia in a dim location, but the plant will live off stored energy and it will deteriorate faster.
· Avoid cold, drafty locations as well as heat sources such as fireplaces or hot air ducts. Chilling can cause leaves to yellow and drop; hot air causes wilting and drying.
· Keep night temperatures cooler than daytime, but no less than 55 degrees, F. Slightly cool night temperatures slow the rate at which poinsettias use food energy, but too cool means trouble.
· Slice holes in the bottom of decorative foil or plastic used to cover the pot, so water drains freely. Waterlogged soil will result in root rot, leaf loss and plant death.
· Water soil thoroughly with barely lukewarm water, whenever the surface feels dry; spill out excess that collects in the tray or saucer. Never water when the soil surface feels wet, but don't let it get too dry, either. Leaves that are allowed to wilt frequently will not last long.
· Begin monthly fertilization after you've had the plant about six weeks. Use houseplant food mixed 1/2 strength. If you don't plan to keep your poinsettia beyond January, fertilizing isn't really necessary.
Source: Brown, D., Yard & Garden Line News, Volume 3 Number 18, University of Minnesota, December 1, 2001