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Lawn
Care Near Lakes: Why Should I Be Concerned?
Many people find landscaping and gardening to be
important parts of a healthy lifestyle. These activities can also improve both
the beauty and value of your property. However, misuse of fertilizers and
chemicals threatens the water quality of your lake. For lakeshore property
owners, the value of your property is directly linked to the water quality of
your lake. Should that lake develop an algal bloom, your property value will
drop significantly.
This section of Lake*A*Syst will help you evaluate
whether your lawn care practices have the potential to increase the phosphorus
level of the lake on which you live.
Natural Buffers or Lawns?
A well-groomed, lush, green lawn is
not the ideal landscape for lake shorefronts. A natural buffer of trees, shrubs,
groundcovers and duff is the preferred planting. The grass in a lawn does not
prevent most storm water runoff from reaching the lake. And a lawn can be more
prone to soil erosion than a naturally vegetated buffer. The duff layer (made of
leaf matter, sticks and plant litter) tends to absorb water more effectively
than home lawns. Buffers require considerably less effort to maintain than
lawns, and are ideal for people using their lake home only part of a summer
season. Please see the section of Lake*A*Syst on
Landscape and Vegetated Buffers
to learn more.
If You Must Have A Lawn…
If a lawn is important to you, there
are several things that you can do to make it less of a threat to lake water
quality.
- Use only
phosphorus-free fertilizer materials.
- Maintain
appropriate soil pH.
- Proper turf
variety selection.
- Proper turf
maintenance.
- Include a
vegetated buffer between your lawn and the lake.
Phosphorus and Lake Water Quality
Phosphorus (P) is the nutrient that limits growth of algae in lakes. Maine lakes
are not well buffered with chemicals that tie up P which makes them very
sensitive to any additional P, even in extremely small amounts. In fact, lake
algal growth can be stimulated with only 15 parts per billion of P. Of all the
potential sources of P entering a lake, the home lawn can be quite an important
source.
Phosphorus-Free Fertilizers
You may think that one lawn won’t make a difference, but it can. If you make the
change to stop using phosphorus (P) based fertilizers encourage your neighbors
and others to do the same. Awareness and education can have long term benefits
to preserve your lake water quality. Many hardware stores have begun handling
P-free fertilizers.
By purchasing only P-free
fertilizers to use in lawns and gardens near the lake, you can make great
strides to preserve water quality. You may wonder why you don’t need to add
Phosphorus (P) to lawns and gardens. The reason is that most Maine soils are
naturally high in P. Plants will not grow well in the absence of P because it is
required by plants for seed production, energy compounds, and many other
important plant reactions. But, plants generally only respond to P if soil test
P levels are low or soil pH is very low. Exceptions include blueberries and
rhododendron plants, which grow best in acid soils.
The best way to find out if any
nutrient additions are needed to grow turf on your soil is to take a soil test.
Soil test kits are available through your
University of Maine Cooperative Extension county office
or online at Analytical
Laboratory and Maine Soil Testing Service. Once you know
the natural phosphorus and pH levels in your soils, you can make educated
adjustments. Keep the soil pH between 6 and 7 to make the natural phosphorus in
your soils available to the plants.
Turf Variety Selection
Choosing the right variety of grass is the first
important step in creating a great lawn. Annual grass only lives for one year so
choose seed with a high percentage of perennial grass seed. Evaluate the amount
of shade and soil type where the lawn is going to be planted. Plant some
clover or other legume in the grass blend. Legumes fix nitrogen from the
atmosphere, which will help make your lawn lush. Even if you don’t plant
them, legumes will find their way into your lawn.
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Characteristics of Turf Grasses Suitable for Maine Lawns
(from UMaine
Cooperative Extension
Bulletin #2367, Establishing a Home Lawn) |
|
Turf grass |
Tolerance of high summer temperatures |
Tolerance of low winter temperatures |
Shade tolerance |
Texture |
Mowing
height |
Wear resistance |
Soil requirements |
Uses |
|
Kentucky Bluegrass |
Good
|
Excellent |
Poor |
Fine to medium |
1.5 to 2.5 |
Medium |
Well-drained fertile soil, pH 6.0 to 7.0, 1 inch water per
week. |
Lawns, athletic fields, general- purpose turf. |
|
Red Fescue |
Good |
Good |
Good to excellent |
Fine |
2 to 2.5 |
Medium |
Well-drained to dry soils. Does not tolerate wet
soil. pH 5.5 to 6.5, .5 to 1 inch water per week. |
Used in mixtures with bluegrass for shade tolerance. Used
when soil is infertile, dry, acid. |
|
Tall Fescue |
Excellent |
Good |
Good |
Course |
2 to 3 |
High |
Moist fertile soil is best. pH 4.7 to 8.5. Tolerates most
soils. 1 to 1.5 inches water per week. |
Often considered a weed in bluegrass lawns. Used in lawn
transition areas, slopes and banks, near waterways. |
|
Perennial Ryegrass |
Poor |
Poor |
Poor |
Coarse to medium |
1.5 to 2 |
Medium |
Medium to high fertility. pH 6.3 to 7.0. 1 to 1.5 inches
water per week. |
"Nurse crop" in seed mixtures, for quick cover.
Hard to mow. Many types are not hardy in Maine |
Grass Clippings
At one
time, grass clippings accounted for 20-50% of
the solid wastes entering landfills. In an attempt to reduce this volume of
recyclable waste entering mainstream landfills, some states have passed
legislation to prevent grass clippings and other yard materials from entering
our landfills. People across the US are realizing that after mowing it is better
to leave the grass in place to decompose. Follow the mowing recommendations
above and then leave the grass clippings to benefit your lawn. If you wait to
cut the lawn when the grass is a foot tall the clippings will be too large and
might suffocate the lawn. Grass clippings are a natural way to fertilize your
lawn. As worms and microorganisms break down the grass clippings, nitrogen and
other essential plant nutrients will be slowly released and become available to
the plants. Basically this puts a 4-1-3 fertilizer on your lawn each time you
mow. Brush clippings off of impervious surfaces to prevent them from being
carried away by stormwater runoff. If you do decide to rake your lawn consider
composting the clippings. A compost pile is a great way to turn vegetation into
nutrient rich soil. Locate the compost pile at least 20 feet away from the
lake. Ensure that there is a vegetated buffer between the compost pile and the
lake to prevent nutrient rich soil from reaching the lake. For more information
on composting, visit the
Maine Compost School.
Water Usage
Proper watering can prevent
leaching of fertilizers and pesticides, reduce soil erosion into the lake and
provide stronger plants. Use the correct variety of turf grass for the
conditions that occur on your lawn. If the area is prone to drying, plant a
drought-resistant variety of grass. If you chose to water your lawn you should
know how much water you are adding. If water begins to runoff instead of soaking
in, turn off the sprinkler. If the lawn still needs water turn it back on
after the excess water has soaked into the ground. Most hose sprinklers apply ¼
to ½ inch of water per hour. You can get a more accurate number by creating a
watering gauge. Put centimeter or inch marks on several containers and
place them under the sprinkler. Water early in the morning to prevent the water
from evaporating in the noon day sun and to keep the grass blades from scorching
under the water and sun.
Turf Pests
Pesticides are chemicals
used to control insects, weeds, or diseases in turf and ornamental crops.
Fortunately, insect damage to turf is not particularly common in Maine.
Sometimes chinch bugs and white grubs can be problematic.
It is important to identify these insects before making a decision to treat. A
healthy lawn is more resistant to insect infestations. Be sure you know what
pest is causing the damage before using a pesticide. Contact your
University of Maine
Cooperative Extension county office for more
information. If it is a challenge to identify the insect, you can try the UMaine
Cooperative Extension Pest
Management Office at (207) 581-3880 or 491 College
Avenue, Orono, Maine 04473.
Whereas insects are only
occasionally problematic, weeds are usually always present in lawns. However,
many people don’t mind a few weeds and consider the lawn more interesting with
many types of plants growing. If you utilize good lawn management methods (2½”
cutting height, decent fertility, and varietal selection) you can stay ahead of
the weeds. Remember that weeds provide some prevention for soil erosion, which
is necessary for long term lake health. If you must use something to control
weeds, please read the label. The label describes the appropriate uses, and will
outline the proper clothing to wear when applying the material. Keep all these
materials out of the reach of children and pets. Remember that most lawn
herbicides can leach or runoff into the lake during rain events. Purchase only
what is required to treat the lawn area using as little material as possible.
Lastly, keep in mind that most weed and feed fertilizer blends will contain
phosphorus (P). The use of P-based fertilizers on the lakeshore is not
considered a best management practice in protecting lake water quality.
Take the Lawn Care
Self-Assessment.
Lake*A*Syst |